ORIGIN : Switzerland.

DATE OF PUBLICATION OF THE ORIGINAL VALID STANDARD : 25.03.2003.

UTILIZATION :Originally used as a guard-, draught-and cattle dog on farms in the Canton Bern, today also family dog and versatile working dog.

CLASSIFICATION F.C.I. :Group 2 Pinscher and Schnauzer typee-Molossoid breeds-Swiss Mountain and Cattle-Dogs.
Section    3 Swiss Cattle Dogs.Without working trial.

BRIEF HISTORICAL SUMMARY : The Bernese Mountain Dog is a farm dog of ancestral origin which was used as a guard and draught dog and for driving cattle in the prealpine regions and in the midland areas around Bern.  Originally he was named “Dürrbächler” according to the name of the hamlet and of the inn of Dürrbach, near Riggisberg in the Canton Bern where these long-haired tricoloured farm dogs were especially numerous.  In 1902, 1904 and 1907 specimen of this breed had already been exhibited at dog shows, and  in 1907 some breeders of the region of Burgdorf decided to promote the pure breeding of these dogs by founding the “Schweizerischer Dürrbach-Klub”, and fixing the characteristic traits of the breed.  In 1910, at a show in Burgdorf where many farmers of that region brought their Dürrbächler dogs to, already 107 specimen were shown.  From that day onward this dog, renamed “Bernese Mountain Dog” following the example of the other breeds of Swiss Mountain Dogs, became rapidly appreciated all over Switzerland and in the neighbouring parts of Germany.  Today the Bernese Mountain Dog is well known and appreciated all over the world as a family dog thanks to its striking tricoloured coat and its great adaptability.

Continue reading »

If you google the words Breed Standard below are some excerpts from some of the results that you will receive

“‘Breed Standard’, which is a picture in words that describes each breed of pedigree dog ”

“New Breed Standards, for newly recognised breeds, are drawn up once the breed has become sufficiently established within the UK. Careful research is conducted into the historical background, health and temperament of any new breed before Kennel Club recognition is granted”

“As each breed needs to be described in detail the standard is broken down into parts of the body and a general guide about the particular breed. There is the same layout for every breed – rather like a blueprint; if each part of your dog is the same as the official breed standard then you most likely have a very good example of your chosen breed.”

Upon further delving you will come across the following

“All show dogs should be Fit For Function: Fit For Life and should NOT have exaggerations that would make the dog unsuited for fulfilling its original purpose”

wikipedia – “Conformation shows are not intended for the examination of the entered dogs for fitness for purpose (such as hunting skill in a dog traditionally used for hunting), and while dogs may be excused by a judge for obvious lameness or illness, the dogs are not tested in the ring for genetic health or examined for the general health of the animal beyond externally observable appearance and behaviour as described in the breed standard.”

Some people have interpreted the Breed Standard as the “Perfect” dog in words

I got talking with a fellow exhibitor recently about Breed Standards, and we took the Greyhound as an example. If the Greyhounds that are winning at conformation shows are the “perfect” dog in words, how is it if they were put up against a track animal over 525 yards, they would be beaten every time ?

Thanks for another interesting article
Having lived in a country where we had snow for many weeks of the winter, I would like to add a couple of tips.

Most dogs have no problem at all, as Paul wrote just trim the feathers off underneath their paws.
The best way of removing the ice balls is to just dung their feet in LUKE warm water when you get back from your walks. Never too warm…hot aches!! it saves all the hassel and no pain for the dog trying to remove them. Then the most important thing is to make sure you dry the paws and check for any cuts or open cracks.
Vaseline or udder creme works wonders between the paws to protect before going out, but never on the pads especially if there is ice underneath the snow…

Boots are in my opinion something only dog owners of minature breeds should use or to protect a damage paw. The dogs have no grip in them and an unnatural movement.

Question: How Do I Protect my Dog’s Paws in the Snow?

Answer: Walking the dogs in cold snowy weather is one of the hazards of dog ownership, unless you are lucky enough to live where snow doesn’t exist. Along with the hazards of having an enthusiastic dog on the end of the leash in icy conditions, ice and snow can cause damage to your dog’s paws as well. Snow and ice can get stuck in between the pads on your dog’s paws, causing cuts and uncomfortably cold toes. Even a small amount of build-up under your dog’s feet can pull the sensitive hairs underneath and cause a noticable loss of traction.

Continue reading »

Hi Paul, love the article but please don’t use the old recipe with raw eggs there is just too much Samonella around. You can get special colustrium for the first 3-4 days and after that there are some very good substitute powered milk for puppies available. Mare or goat milk can also be used and is way better than cow milk for the puppies digestive system

The Kennel Club has announced that from 2012 it will normally register no more than four litters from any one bitch because of concerns that the current legal limit of six litters can potentially be detrimental to a bitch’s welfare.

The decision was made by the Kennel Club General Committee after receiving a recommendation from its Dog Health Group and will be effective for litters born on or after 1st January 2012.

Six litters per bitch is the current legal limit enshrined in the Breeding and Sale of Dogs (Welfare) Act 1999.

Continue reading »